DAY 6 : KENTUCKY!

133 km (82 miles) - total: 869 km (539 miles)

Damascus, VA to Elkhorn City, KY

It may seem like a shortish day distance-wise but it had some nasty climbs so I am satisfied with today's work. I finished my day a few miles into Kentucky, the second State of my transAmerica trip. I thought that I would never see the back of Virginia but finally, after 6 hard-earned days of toiling I was finally crossing states. I am right on schedule and I have 6 days of cycling and climbing hills in my legs. I did not think I was going to polish off Virginia so efficiently. I am in one piece and in great spirits. I look forward to taking on the rest of America. I started the day later than planned as the Inn I took lodge at last night was too comfortable and it was hard to get back on the road. After a huge breakfast I was away at 8.30 and pretty soon hit some serious climbs. I knew I had to deal with at least 2 big steep hills in the morning and one in the afternoon but I chewed 'em up with my eyes on the prize and by 5pm I saw the Kentucky sign and yes!!!...I am done with Virginia. Today I cycled on solitary country roads with almost no traffic at all, I must have seen only a handful of cars all day. I often paused by the side of the road to look around me, the silent hills dotted with wooden barns and farm houses, the rolling green fields, often fenceless around here. I wish I had taken more pictures today, every single corner of this country should be photographed. But given the seesaw of climbs and descents I was very much focused on the job at hand. Often I thought "Ok, let's stop here to take a picture...no no let's keep going a while longer". So the scenery is really imprinted in my memory, the few pictures cannot do justice to the understated beauty of these hills. Entering Ky reminded me that I only have two big climbs left before I part ways with the Appalachians, so this is the good news. The bad news is that the fierce Kentucky dogs are all waiting for me, sharpening their teeth. I was again warned today by local people to brace myself for some serious chasing by barking dogs of all kinds and sizes.
The mountains got steeper and before I reached the Breaks Interstate Park, the road snaked through a deep gorge for about 30 miles. The climb up Hayter's Gap was the toughest ascent of the trip, I ascended 1500 feet over 4 miles. When I got to the top it felt amazing! The views and the subsequent descent made it all worthwhile. I absolutely blasted down the mountain hitting speed of 55kph. There is a considerable degree of risk doing that as a fallen rock, a pothole, a slip, anything in the way is all that it takes to send you flying head first in a ditch or in the middle of the road with a bicycle chained to your feet. That is why it takes maximum focus to cycle down the slope, eyes glued to the road, hands firm on the handlebar and fingers ready to hit on the brakes. I have learnt how to shift my body on the bicycle according to the line of the road, how to pedal putting more pressure on the ankles, the calves, the knees and the hips even. And while I am doing all this I've got America all around me.

Today I did not stop for lunch but rather I had more frequent rest stops eating all sorts of power and chocolate bars. I do not even like power bars, I find them too sweat, so today I started eating those healthy fig biscuits. I walk into a grocery store in my cycling gear, sweat pooring down my face and I supremely enjoy the fat ladies at the counter buried in make-up smiling and puffing a "how'ya doin hon?". There are things that are really "only in America". Certain villages I cycle through belong to a different era, a different world really. Detached from the relentless hussle of big cities and far way from what we consider modern life. I love this feeling, there is a world within our world. Life goes on for everyone, wherever we are. The bicycle is the means with which I am traveling through realities and they are all mine. This is the United States of America, with all the shades of gray in between. These are the people I would never meet. These are the people I don't see. These are the people that exist at the margins of my life and yet, right now and right here they are my life.

I have to admit that the country houses are getting shabbier and run down as I move West. It is a sign that poverty levels increase as well and it is all too visible. Many houses display all kind of rubbish in the front porches. Yards are dotted with old toys and obscure gadgets. Signs of yard sales, garage sales, weekend sales, etc are eveywhere. Owners may sit on the front steps of their trailers. Huge tattooed men barechested stare blankly while chewing and spitting all the time. Women smoke a lot and kids run around barefooted.

West Virginia and part of Kentucky are steeped in coal mining history as coal commerce started as early as 1700s here in Virginia. I was passed by at least fifty coal trucks and tankers today!! it does not make for a fun ride as they roar by without concern often coming within a whisker. I came across two coal shafts and I understand that Virginia even fought a war over control of coal industry.

I wish to conclude today's report by mentioning Mike from Holkorn City who helped me to place the motel. Despite the pervasive poverty, the kindness of locals here is disarming and many enquire about my trip and wish me well.



View from the Breaks Interstate Park


Funny sign


Entrance to a coal Mine


The scenic route 80 cutting through West Virginia

DAY 5: "just like coming down the Galibier"

158km (98 miles) - total: 736km (457 miles)

Radford, VA to Damascus, VA

The most satisfying day of the trip so far. A huge ascent to the highest elevation of the route (3758ft) and the hilarious 11-mile descent during which I averaged 40+ kph. It felt wonderful to be able to 'let it loose' down the slope. I had the road almost all for myself. The road, shaded by two tall walls of leafy trees, twisted round gorges, in between creeks, under hanging rock formations and tunnels of leaves. The fresh air pinched my skin and the deep shade cooled my body. Adrenaline took care of the rest. Shooting downhill like I did today must be just like coming down the legendary Galibier without the chasing group behind that is! It was complete, unrestrained freedom!
I reached Damascus, a haven for hikers, at 5.30pm and was lucky to find the Hikers Inn, where I am the only guest and the landlady, a cheerful woman in her 60s, was kind enough to let me do the laundry so I was able to wash all my clothes. The place is quaint and peaceful with smooth wooden floors and antique furniture. Suzanne, the owner, has a vegetable and a flower garden out back. History has it that people from West Virginia are quiet and proud. It is true. However, their pride is quickly concealed by an unexpected abundance of kindness reflected in respectful and dignified gestures.

I was happy to leave the grotty motel I stayed in last night! I did not sleep well, the bed was too small and the mattress too saggy. So I hit the road this morning at 7.15am and rode through a hilly section of Virginia still shrouded in a haze. I toiled up short steep hills and felt slightly disheartened because having to shift gear every 100 yards for over 2 hours and then down and up again is not exactly ideal cycling. When I got to Wytheville, at 11 am, I felt extremely tired and for a second I thought I was done for the day. I sat in a diner out of a 50s movie, I wouldn't have been surprised if James Dean had walked in. After two tasty ham and cheese I began to ponder my options: call it a day or keep going? I rested my head on the table and found some inner strenght building up in my veins so in no time I was back on the saddle. The road again was hilly and tough but it afforded some great scenery. I stopped a few more times to stock on water and chocolate along the way at isolated grocery stores and I knew that the morning hills foreshadowed what was to come: the big ascent of Mount Rogers National Park where all the Appalachian trails meet. I thought about resting an extra day before taking it on but at the late hour of 4pm I gave it try. I put my music on and my legs felt strong and I pedaled up the ascent all fired up! The scenery was really beautiful as the pictures, I hope, do some justice to it. When I got to the top of the ascent totally soaked in sweat I stopped for a few seconds to look at the view with a big smile on my face. The descent was the highlight of the day, I came down the mountain smiling almost all the way, feeling free and happy. The scenery was incredible, the road ringed by tall trees with thick foliage which kept the sun out of my eyes. The smell of nature was incredibly fresh and I could enjoy it all without traffic. The languid life along the back roads of West Virginia has an incredible appeal to me. These back country lanes with the sound of nature all around are the perfect scenery for cycling. An unmatched peace, a soothing sense of solitude, an unbearable feeling of belonging to nature and its little things have pervaded me. I was alone and I had my bicycle, I did not need anything else. I will never forget this.

I have been cycling for 5 solid days and I am still in Virginia!! If it wasn't for the changing scenery I would say I am not making any progress. And yet, if all goes to plan, tomorrow night I may be in Kentucky...but let's not get head of myself.



Rest stop


Fog clings to the hills


Road winds up through the forest


More climbs..


..and more


Damascus, Main st


Are we entering the bible belt? yep!


and more

DAY 4: Staring at the white line

155 km (96 miles) - total: 578km (359 miles)

Lexington, VA to Radford, VA

Today was tougher than yesterday simply because the amount of climbs, and some pretty steep ones, increased and I was not prepared for that. And it was also warmer than yesterday. The heat does take a toll especially on steep inclines. I increased my intake of fluids, I have been consuming buckets of liquids so I drank 6 liters today and did not pee once! Forgive this intimate and slightly disgusting detail but it gives you a rough idea of the physical strain! The added weight caused by the backpack provides an even bigger physical burden to deal with. By 10am of each riding day my back is completely soaked in sweat.
I woke up at 7am and hit the road one hour later after my customary waffle, croissants and a cheese bagel.

I rode through the historic town of Lexington which is extremely pretty and then, upon leaving the urban area, the road got narrower and plunged in a small lush valley, which was peaceful and beautiful. It ran parallel to a lovely creek for about 10 miles. I rode past a number of old barns and farm houses where quiet men barely turned their heads to glance at me. The picturesque setting soon ended as upon leaving the valley I entered Roanoke urban areas. I rode fast as I wanted to get past the traffic and get off the big roads. I quickly reached some hills which provided serious grades. My speed suffered from it as it was the kind of variation that stops you from gaining any momentum. As soon as I was done with a hill and I started enjoy the descent here came another one. And then it was a nightmare, I had to deal with the worst ascent of my life, It was so steep that heavy trucks aren't allowed to drive on it. I was averaging 8 km per hour for almost 1.5 miles. I don't know how I got to the top without stopping but getting there was incredibly rewarding. Many thoughts went through my head when I was climbing that mountain. I pushed hard on the pedals with the rucksack even heavier than usual, resting heavily on my back and the straps cutting into my shoulders. At moments like that I just have to grind it out, like a solitary climber on a icy slope in the middle of nowhere, fighting for his life. I push myself so hard that I wonder what the hell I am doing. It is hard to describe the twirling of emotions but I felt extremely humbled by the endeavor and just when I thought I couldn't take it anymore and wanted to throw in the towel, my body does things I did not know it could. And that is the moment that I get to know the passion, pain, love maybe, and certainly a good deal of madness! My head is bowed, my teeth are clenched, my hands grip the handlebars and my body works as one and I stare at that white line and know that every inch I gain is an inch towards the top. And the top of the mountain is there, somewhere, waiting for me, staring at me, scrutinizing me, wanting to see what I am made of and all I can do is be myself and give my best shot. With the corner of my eye I see my sweat streaming down my forehead and my arms, I feel my body at work, my legs moving, busy pedaling, I breathe through my nose and mouth, I take in the air like a glass of cool lemonade and I quickly glance ahead but not too often and not too far because the sight of a long ascent might scare me off. It is the fear that after all the hype, all the pep talk, all the preparation I might actually come to the conclusion that I will fail. So I learn to control that fear by listening and talking to my body, by reminding myself how I got this far. And if I got this far I know I can go a little farther. Maybe then I can push the boundaries, maybe I can claim the unknown, because the unknown is only a grey area between my dreams and my fears and once I push past the finishing line I come out a new man on the other side. So I feel safe and protected. I look back and I realize that that my legs have carried me through.

After taming the slope and more hills and flat terrain, I rolled into Christiansburg around 4pm after almost 8 hours on the bike. This was my planned finish for the day but I decided to push on to the next town and one hour later I got to the scenic town of Radford, ideally located by New river.

I am slightly ahead of schedule and I look forward to tomorrow. The route will provide more climbs and a 3000ft ascent. It should be challenging. This afternoon the sky got overcast and it threatened thunderstorm for the very first time but luckily the bad weather stayed away. For now that is...

During one of my pit stops I was approached by a man in his late 50s, tall and slim, with a peaceful demeanor and a familiar face, he stopped to talk to me and enquired about my trip. When I told him that I was trying to make it to the Grand Canyon the man said that he would pray for me to have a safe trip. He was on his way to a bible class. Lots of bible signs around here. I meet a lot of kind people even thought I don't spend too much time talking as I am riding most of the day! Most people around here seem to have a lot of time on their hands and they seem to be taking life very easily. Sorry for not posting pics of myself today.



The creek by the country road, outside Lexington


It's a hot day for them too



Country diner, I love these places!


Virginia barn



Pretty Christiansburg


Radford


New river

DAY 3: Mountains tamed!

116 km (72 miles) - total: 423km (263 miles)

Charlottsville, VA to Lexington, VA

Yet another superb day for cycling! I was super-psyched for the climb today that I hardly slept last night and the Blue Ridge Parkway did not disappoint.
I rolled into Lexington at 2.45pm, an incredible early finish. Once I was over the pass, I simply flew down the mountain and pushed hard for the remaining 18 miles on flat terrain. I even thought about pushing on to the next town, another 30km or so but I decided to spend more time chilling at the hotel. My legs deserve it after today's exploits!

The day started in the best possible fashion: waffles with maple syrup for breakfast!I left the hotel at 7.15am and made good time to Afton, located at the foothills of the Blue Ridge Parkway. I spent a few minutes checking out the facilities of the well-known (at least she is known to cyclists) Cookie Lady but it was all quiet and all the doors were locked so I pushed on. The Afton hill was pretty mean! However, the grades on the BRP are easier so I could keep an eye on the scenery of this celebrated All American road. The ascent to the highest point of 3300 feet was hard but not as tough as I expected. The air was incredibly fresh despite the high temperatures and I felt in superb shape. Once I began to climb my muscles warmed up nicely and the pedal strokes action was smooth and steady. And yet my legs felt heavy last night, I think adrenaline takes care of tiredness and I think the cool air helped and the fantastic views left and right made the effort so worthwhile. I had been reading so much about the BRP that it was simply incredible to be able to ride my bicycle on it. Just a few passing cars and several riders roared by on the way up. By the way, not a clever generalization but interesting nonetheless: all motorcycle riders here are pretty fat, have tattoos and mustaches. The girls aren't that skinny either and they all wear leather pants.

In the 27 miles on the BRP I gained an elevation of 5000 ft (1524mt). I stopped several times to take pictures as the many overlooks provided awesome views of Virginia. Just when I thought that this State had fantastic countryside and farmlands, I can see now that mountains are also a special feature of Virginia, a state so rich in its diversity. I stopped at the top of the highway and asked one of the bikers to take my picture with Western Virginia in the background. I was completely soaked in sweat and the cool breeze made me feel really cold. I was therefore anxious to get back on the pedals. After 27 miles of climbing, I left the BRP and began the short, terrifying descent to Vesuvius. The grades were ridiculously steep as the road drops about 1500 feet over 3 miles. I think the descent was more energy-consuming than the climb, with a windy steep road and several hairpin curves. At one point coming down the mountain I hit the speed of 63kph and I thought I was going to come off the road and start flying through the trees. After that I just held the handlebar so tight that my hands were sore and numb. I stopped once on the descent to let the brakes cool down for fear of them melting. I touched the rim with my finger and it was so hot I almost got burnt!!

The quick descent led to Vesuvius which is a dead town, with a solitary train track and a tiny train station. The only store in town was closed and I was itching to get liquids in me. In fact, I had one problem with restocking on water today. As I planned to stock on water according to the stops outlined in the map (and I always plan this very carefully), the two stores from the BRP to Lexington that were supposed to be open were both closed. I ran out of water on the top of the mountain so I had to push from the top of the BRP to the end, a 25 miles strecht, without water. By the time I got to Lexington I was so thirsty, I had no voice and my throat was so dry that I lunged at the first grocery store! I gulped down two liters of water before I could even pay for them. The lady at the counter offered me lemonade, I must have looked miserable!

I am now resting happily thinking about the wonderful views of the BRP. I hope you enjoy the pics I selected for today's report.



My ride began at the foot of the Appalachians


Locals showing magnanimity


Here we go!


Elevation..


Resting on the way up


Views from the top


Stunning views from BRP


I made it!


Highest point


The beginning of a very effortful descent

DAY 2: "...all men are created equal..."

157 km (97.5 miles) - total: 307 km (190 miles)

Fredericksburg, VA to Charlottsville, VA

Another stunning day for cycling. How long is this going to last?? Perfect weather to see me off this morning when I got on the bike at 7am and ideal climate to greet me this late afternoon at my final destination for the day. I finished my day at about 4.45pm, with a nice and easy pace making sure that I have plenty in the tank for the big climb tomorrow. I can see the Appalachians from where I am...
Today it was just wonderful to ride through the Virginia country lanes. My alarm went off at 5.30 but I fiddled about for another hour before I checked out of the Hotel. I rode the first 70 km off route on Road 208 as I wanted to see the historic Spotsylvania courthouse and thus took a short cut from Fredericksburg to Mineral where I connected with the ACA route again. It was a brilliant choice as the road 208 to lake Anna offered a relaxing and enjoyable ride with intimate views of rural Virginia. Green fields, rolling hills, white picket fences, barns, quiet country lanes, animals. I love Virginia. I saw a white-tailed deer just off the road! Those 30 miles or so have been the best bit of the trip so far. The beauty of this State is somehow eclipsed by the more renowned, glossy presidential and civil war-related places. However, Virginia has so much to offer. Today, more than yesterday, I got to see the hidden gems of stately Virginia. I stopped several times along the way to soak it in. I urge anyone who is not crazy enough to cycle to rent a car and just dally at their leisure up and down the Virginia hills.

When I left the hotel with the sun barely up, the morning air was crisp and refreshing. However, by 10 am the temperature rose as the sun fully unveiled its power; so the air was humid and incredibly hot. After crossing scenic Lake Anna, dotted with boats and ski jets, I reached Mineral, my halfpoint for the day. There I had lunch in a roadside diner and enjoyed a tasty country ham sandwich. From Mineral to Monticello it was a solitary ride through a hilly section of the green and leefy countryside. When I was toiling up the hills in the haze of the early afternoon hours of a baking hot summer day to the chirping of crickets and the stillness of nature in windless conditions completely soaked in sweat listening to my own breath, I realized that this is what is all about, the bicycle and me as one shrouded in mother nature. All I have to do is follow the road and enjoy the ride.

Before I entered the Charlottsville urban area, I passed by the gates of President Monroe's estate and T. Jefferson's plantation of Monticello. The guy played a huge role in writing the Declaration of Independence and Charlottesville has several places that celebrate his accomplishments. I did not want to stop to visit the grounds so I continued to the town where I took a brief stroll through historic downtown and soon after I found myself craving for a shower and a hot dinner.

The ride was tougher then yesterday as the hills got steeper and more frequent which made it difficult to pace myself. And today I was even hungrier than yesterday and ate all sorts of things, from power bars to chocolate bars. Big day tomorrow as I will attempt to climb part of the backbone of Eastern US: the Appalachians. I will ride on the famed Blue Ridge Parkway. I can't wait!



The old Courthouse


Crossing lake Anna


Which way now?


Lake Anna



Virginia fences


Virginia at its very best


Monroe's place


Monticello bridge


Downtown Charlottsville

DAY 1: "Run Forrest, Run!"

150 km (93 miles)

Washington DC to Fredericksburg, VA

My ambitious quest for glory began this morning at 6.50 am as I locked my apartment door and dragged my bycicle down the silent hallway and carried it in the elevator. I quietly packed my things in the early hour of a lazy DC summer morning. Completely and utterly energized by what lies ahead I got into my cycling gear, ate oatmeal and two bananas, I left my building and I was out on the silent and empty downtown streets slightly amused at the thought of someone stopping me and asking where I was riding to and me calmy quipping: to the Grand Canyon! I left the Capital down 19th st with not a single cloud in the sky and not a soul in the downtown streets. I rode past the stately Lincoln Memorial, I crossed right away into Virginia, my first state! and took my first picture of the trip, that of the Arlington bridge with my heart pounding thinking about the thousands of miles that lay ahead. The first 14 miles, an easy stress-free ride following the Mount Vernon trail, through historic Alexandria, which looked very sleepy at that time of the morning. The first part of the trail was heavily used by early morning runners but after Alexandria I enjoyed a solitary ride through trees and along the Potomac before I parted ways with the big river and headed south west. Then I had to deal with highway traffic through heavily populated Northern Virginia for 2 hours before I could make my way into the gently rolling Eastern Virginia country roads. Before that I passed through Fort Belvoir, a neat and solemn US Army installation of about 8000 people, quintessential suburbia a la American Beauty, with neatly trimmed lawns, spotless front porches, smooth American flags hanging by the side of the houses and orderly traffic that runs through it. At about noon, with about 55 miles in the bag, I stopped for 30 minutes to eat my lunch in an empty church courtyard in the middle of nowhere. Virginia is full of farms, some really big ones, like you see in the movies. Forestry and logging are Virginia main export. Virginia is very hilly and that doesn't make for a smooth ride so I stuck to a slow steady pace to enjoy the scenery. I didn't rest long as I was anxious to get to Fredericksburg early. I am already thinking about Monday which I expect to be a tough day with the climb up the Blue Ridge Parkway, dubbed the 'most beautiful drive in America' as I start the first serious climb of my trip up the Appalachians, rising to an elevation of 3300 feet. So tomorrow hopefully should be flat and smooth sailing until Charlottesville. I am hoping to get there early in the afternoon so I can rest my legs and possibly take a walk through the historic town. Monticello, Jefferson's residence is only 6 miles off route but I don't want to be distracted. For now it is just riding, once I get to Colorado I will do sightseeing. Colorado?? Am I insane? I can't think like that! It is too far off, let's take one day at the time. My legs feel pretty good at the moment. I passed a few cyclists but didn't have a chance to chat, they were mainly locals doing a stretch. The traffic was light on the country lanes but heavy on the highways, however, as I move west traffic is bound to get lighter. I checked in and was in the shower by 3.30 pm, which gave me plenty of time to chill, write the blog and cool my legs for tomorrow. The hotel, Comfort Inn, Southpoint, Fredericksburg, VA conveniently located by the side of the highway, is sandwiched between a massive Mc Donald and an array of several other chain eateries. American life lies by the side of the highway; its pleasures smothered by long distance drives and the illusion of moving from A to B through the open spaces gratified by the sight of millions of others traveling the same distance. Paul Haggis' Crash epitomizes the spirit of the highway and the way of life of the non-communicating traveler, faraway and yet so close. Needy and yet unchained. Compromised and yet free. Just before entering the town I crossed the Rappahannock River, which is a very important river in American history. A few miles before the hotel, I cycled past the entrance to the famous Fredericksburg battlefield. Here the battle was one of the toughest one-sided being fought between the Union Army and the Confederate. Actually the whole of Virginia is littered with civil war memorials; I passed quite a few signs along the way today. Hope you enjoy the pictures I chose for today's report.




6.59 am, Arlington Bridge, the first of many bridges I will be crossing


The sun is rising in DC


Alexandria is still asleep


George Washington Memorial Parkway, America lies ahead


Last glimpse of the Potomac, it goes south and I go west


Unsettling calm in Fort Belvoir


Stone house


Rappahannock river


Entering Fredericksburg


Downtown Fredericksburg


Entrance to Fredericksburg battlefield


Historic Sunken road

Looking for America (-2)

All done and dusted, just a few hours to go now... I can finally stop daydreaming. It is time to go. The West is out there, waiting for me. Excitement clouds my mind. After much deliberation, I have decided that I am taking the pepper spray with me, those dogs will chase me! I have been reading several journals and many cyclists do complain about dogs in Kentucky. I can take the mountains, the cold, the rain, the tornados, the confederate flags and even the easy riders with their strident and shining motorbikes but I hate dogs running after me lunging forward to sink their teeth in my legs. I have laid out my equipment over my bed, the maps, all the tools, the clothes, the power food. I am ready. Over the past 5 weeks, I have covered over 1600 km so I have proper training in my legs. My heart and mind are in the right place now it's up to my legs, the bike and the weather to do their job!!! Before I set off I wish to thank God or whoever is out there for this chance! I have never been a cyclist and never wanted to be one but for some reason I have always wanted to do this. I began dreaming about it when I was 16 years old and now that I am a few hours away from the dream I cannot believe I am about to do it! America...here I come!