DAY 26: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

145 km (90 miles) - total: 3731 km (2318 miles)

Gunnison, Co to Montrose, Co

Another day of passion through the gorges and the canyons of Colorado. Another day of climbing, of fighting steep grades and wintry temperatures. And the scenery is getting better and better.
I had a sleepless night, my legs were still pedaling hard to reach a high snow-covered Pass somewhere in the mountains. After yesterday's effort adrenaline was still rushing and the memories of nailing the 3500mt pass didn't fade at all. I wish I could do it again.

I was on the road at 8 this morning and for the very first time a new and unexpected element to brave awaited me: the cold. The Gunnison bank's clock read 44F (6 C). The town sits pretty high at 7703 ft but 44F was a bit too much for a 1st September morning. I later found out the Gunnison is one of the coldest cities in America with January average temperatures of -8F (-22 C). As soon as I commenced pedaling I realized how cold it was and found it hard to breathe, I didn't feel my hands and feet and of course my cotton clothes were but a feeble protection against such cold air. The sun was out but didn't make a difference and I rode the first 30km shivering to my very core. I was freezing and I kept on going and hoping to warm up in the upcoming hills. It took me a long time to feel warm and at a price. The freezing air gave me a stomach ache that lasted well through the afternoon. I didn't drink much today and the first drink was a hot tea at a grocery store! Luckily the road was incredibly scenic which kept my attention away from the freezing temperatures and for 4 miles I got to ride in a tiny but amazing canyon, the ride was simply awesome.

After about 70 miles I reached the junction with highway 347. The Black Canyon was 6 miles North. The problem was that the road climbed 2000 feet in just over 5 miles. I was cold and had enough of climbing hills but I really wanted to see the place. I was back on the grades I experienced in the Appalachians but here in Colorado I also had the altitude to contend with. But I did well and I reached the gates of the park completely soaked in sweat. I was eager to view the anticipated black walls of the Canyon which kept my motivation up throughout the ascent. In the Park, I rode along the South Rim and I cannot describe how incredible the scenery was. The six-mile South Rim Drive leads to several overlooks from which to view the Gunnison River 2,000 feet below. These cliff walls are made up of rock that is 1.7 billion years old, some of the oldest rocks in North America. In the Canyon, the Painted Wall is the highest cliff in Colorado measuring 2300 ft from the bottom to the top where I was standing. If the Empire State Building stood on the canyon floor, it would reach slightly more than halfway to the top of the cliff! I gazed at the view and I could not take my eyes off the majestic cliffs, the mountains walls and the river that runs through the canyon. Simply breathtaking. The info provided by the park tourist office explained that the canyon has been a mighty barrier to humans. Only its rims, never the gorge, show evidence of human occupation - not even by Ute Indians living in the area since written history began. Actually, the narrowest part of Black Canyon at the river is only 40 feet across. This Canyon of course cannot be compared to the Grand Canyon as the former is smaller but it is just as imposing. Its sheer walls create startling depth, strong winds blast through the rocky walls and the mysterious black gloss and dark shadows make the place incomprehensibly eerie and fascinating.

The history of Colorado is inextricably linked to the history of Native Americans, The area where I am cycling is inhabited by Ute Indians, especially the southern Rocky Mountains. They have been here since around 1500 A.D. making these Native Americans the oldest continuous residents of Colorado. They use to occupy the entire state and today after a series of treaties, the Ute land base of 56 million acres shrunk to less than ten percent of that. The Southern Ute Reservation (the largest Ute group) in Colorado now consists of a strip of arid, desolate land 15 miles wide and 110 miles long. Same old same, history confined the natives within a limited space where poverty levels are very high. I will ride close to the reservation if I can make it to Blanding in the next few days.

After my visit at the Canyon I descended almost 3000ft to Montrose where I am staying tonight. Colorado is providing me with beautiful settings to ride in. I notice that the land becomes drier and stripped of vegetation as I move West. From heavily forested areas with dramatic peaks all around, the land gives way to rugged terrain, less trees, less conifers, more dry bushes and redd clay. Utah will be the drier state of my trip with its red rock parks and long solitary roads. It is time to cash in soon. This is why I came. If I can make it to Utah tomorrow night I think I might just make it to the Grand Canyon before my deadline.

I am leaving the mountains and I am about to enter the deserts of America.


Highway 50, it is just me on the road


Taking a break


The view from West Elk Creek Scenic Byway (Highway 50)


Highway 50 between Sapinero and Cimarron


Highway 50 between Sapinero and Cimarron


Highway 50


From Highway 50


This is the view from the road up to the Black Canyon Park


Entrance to the Park


Black Canyon from Pulpit Rock Overlook


Black Canyon, from Painted Wall Point


Black Canyon, Gunnison Point


Black Canyon, from Gunnison Point


Black Canyon, from Tomichi Point