The route

The route

Monday, August 16, 2010

DAY 10: "Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee"

155 km (96 miles) - total: 1318 km (818 miles)

Berea, Ky to Bardstown, Ky

He is from Louisville, Kentucky. It's a story about dedication and pain and redemption, it is a tale about a boy who defied the US government and when they wanted to send him to Vietnam to fight he replied 'no Vietcong ever called me a nigger!' It's a story about a man who threw punches to get out of the poverty. He could dance on his toes and would dodge punches like a ballerina gracefully weaves magic on a stage. He relied purely on courage
I had a slow start this morning, I could not get up, I slept soundly and getting on the bike was harder than anticipated. However, it only took me a few minutes to realize that it was gonna be a good day. And today it was just perfect for cycling, after yesterday's heat it was as someone came to turn down the heat and I covered my 150+ km through absolutely wonderful hills quicker and with less effort than expected. I am going to continue to push my luck and (seemingly!) good shape and try to do a bit more tomorrow, I will try to draw strength from the story about that boy from Louisville who said you can't hit what you don't see. He also said many other things with his brash and defiant attitude. He was youthful, he was beautiful. 'What's my name?', 'What's my name?'

Early this morning upon leaving Berea going West, I turned around and gave the mountains a last look! But just because I left the mountains doesn't mean that I was done with climbing. And, as it turned out, the shorts hills of Ky, the "rollers" are every bit as challenging as the steep inclines of the Appalachians. These are short and frequent and the descent cannot generate enough momentum to carry you to the top of the next roller. Basically, it messes up your pace. Well, actually you cannot set any pace. So today I just went with the flow and decided to concentrate more on the scenery and the beautiful farmland around me than on the actual cycling. I think it paid off. I thought about the pioneers with an unbridled spirit of adventure that came to Kentucky. I thought about those brave people coming from the East that through all sorts of hardship crossed the mountains in search of a place to settle. After seeing the green hills of Ky they must have realized that this was home. These hills feel warm and welcoming, the locals are extremely kind and I notice it when I am on the road. The driving is extremely respectful here as drivers take their time to pass you by making sure that nobody is traveling on the opposite lane so they overtake by leaving plenty of space between me and the vehicle. This operation could take a while because only on a stretch where there's enough visibility can they really overtake with much safety space. This didn't happen as often in Eastern Ky and not even in Virginia where most passes were close calls for me! Also, drivers usually stick their hand out acknowledging the cyclist, which makes me feel extremely respected. I often exchange their friendliness with a smile or raising my hand.

My half point today was Harrosburg, a pretty historic town. I stopped for lunch at an old diner. The owners were very kind and sociable, they asked about my trip while they served me a delicious country ham sandwich. They were surprised when I told them that I am traveling solo but I added that there are certain things in life that require complete solitude. At least that's what I think! I quickly visited Fort Harrod, the first permanent settlement in Kentucky. I got back on the bike and passed through Lincoln's homestead, historic houses of Lincoln's family.

The scenery today was pure farmland, rolling hills, cattle, horses, those incredible thoroughbred horses of Kentucky and still a couple of dog chases but I am an expert now, I was actually the one scaring them off by stopping, dismounting and calmly saying "what you are gonna do now?!" at that they simply stopped barking and returned to their homes with their tails between their legs, this proves that they are really after the chase more than anything else. However, I must admit that I played this little trick on small dogs, on the big ones it was just "let's get the hell out of here!!" The cattle here is very abundant, with large and healthy cows everywhere and all the farms look up and running with farmers busy working. This part of Ky is certainly wealthier than what I have seen thus far. Agriculture has played a big role in the local economy. And it is an absolute joy cycling here.

Hope you like today's pictures.



Leaving Berea I stopped and turned around to take a last look at the Appalachians. and a last shot!


Intimate country road among the hills of Ky


Crossing lake Harrington


Farmland


No, it's not Georgetown, it is downtown Harrodsburg


The diner at Harrodsburg where I stopped for lunch


Free GPS inside? Salvation for those who are lost?? Are they kidding?


A traffic light in the middle of nowhere


I hope this picture does justice to the beauty of these hills


Another self-portrait nearing Bardstown, yes I am smiling!


Gift shop in Bardstown, What's with all the horses? It's Kentucky!


Highway at sundown

6 comments:

  1. Well done Luigi! We are following you from Quebec City...baci Amanda e Roberto

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  2. I really enjoyed reading your blog today, less hills and more countryside this time around. Glad to hear that you haven't "yet" used the pepper spray!!! By the way, where are all these locals you are meeting? Get yourself and them in a photo!!! Be safe, Maria

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  3. Well look at you, just moseying along down the road!! Glad to see you had a close encounter with a razor :) You were going grizzly for a while back there!! It's nice that you're appreciating the history of the area as well as the natural beauty - and giving us a chance to learn some things as well!!

    Careful with the close calls with traffic. I'm seeing a trend here with the numerous country ham sandwiches. What, o what will you do after this trip when you're craving one hmmmm??? Take a pic of the next ham sandwich platter ok? I'm curious what lunch looks like in these little diners.

    PS. Is it still considered solitude when you have all those little voices conversing with you in your head? (sorry hun, couldnt resist that one!!;)

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  4. bello, molto bello, quello che hai scritto! Solo pochi eletti (quelli abili con wikipedia) hanno capito che si trattava di M. A. Ogni giorno traduco x Franchito e poi gli faccio il fax, la mia traduzione viene letta avidamente anche da a couple di mie colleghe che hanno finalmente confessato che non capiscono l'inglese. Qui tutto benissimo. Sono contenta che montagne e cani finiscano. Ciao cinno!
    Wikipina

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  5. Bella Luigi,come hai scritto condivido la tua scelta di non preoccuparti più della velocità, del cambio e in generale della bicicletta. Grazie a una forma fisica che ti sorregge e alla strada che è meno impegnativa inserisci il pilota automatico e riempi i tuoi occhi dei paesaggi e della gente e dopo che sono passati dalla tua "anima" arrivano a noi arricchiti dalle tue riflessioni GOOD LUCK Micio

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  6. Ok. I think the sun is frying your brain a little. Stopping to face down the dogs?!!

    I do agree with RQK about the grizzled look. Trying to get in touch with those cattle rustlers from the Wild, wild west were we?!! Hmmm.

    Great pics as usual. Horses, Kentucky, Kentucky Derby?!!!

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