DAY 13: The capital of Southern Illinois

122 km (75 miles) - total: 1769 km (1099 miles)

Elizabethtown, Il to Carbondale, Il

The day started unusually late, I was on the road at 9.15 with a bright and sunny sky. Despite the late start and due to the short distance to cover, today's ride was history just before 4pm. Another perfect day for cycling. I didn't want it to end. No clouds in a perfectly sun-lit sky, a gentle breeze and great temperature only pushing high 80s. I think probably the best day I've had weather-wise and it was a shame that it was also the shortest day in terms of distance. But I had to hit the town to reach the bicycle shop for a tune-up. The people at the store suggested that I installed a new chain, as the current chain was slightly worn out, and so I did. They also changed the brake pads, they were still okay and would have easily survived another 1000 miles, they fixed the derailleur and aligned the front wheel which was a tad out of whack. I haven't had any major problems so far so I was rightly skeptical when they run through the bill (120 bucks). They must have thought 'here's another city slicker, let's suck some money out of him'. I was actually warned by the cyclist I run into yesterday about the high competition between bicycle shops in Carbondale. However, I have to admit that after the hefty facelift once I got the bike on the road it felt substantially better than before. The motion through the pedals was smooth and easy and my clip shoes would unhook with a gentle motion instead of the usual fierce tug. It was a joy to ride again. The guys told me to have another tune-up in about 1000 miles, that happens to be just before I hit the Rockies...if I get there...I will.
I had a phenomenally huge breakfast, which understandably delayed my departure, the lady could only serve it at 8.30 and the food was all fresh and cooked on the spot. Hamburger, eggs, grit, pancakes, cheese, homemade jam and bread were all laid on the table and mine for the taking. I stuffed myself and I must have been at least three pounds heavier on the bike this morning! I was starving but cycling on a stuffed stomach is not ideal! However, it didn't take long to sweat it all off as I was back in the hills and some pretty short and mean climbs. But I greatly enjoyed the ride today, most of it on country roads and through the Shawnee National Forest, an ideal place for many outdoor activities out in the wilderness. This is a peaceful leafy park dotted with oak trees.

In Goreville, my halfpoint for the day, there was a restaurant where all the cyclists stop and sign a book, which I discovered later on. The place had a nice 'cyclists welcome' sign in front but I didn't go in because I was hurrying up to Carbondale to get to the bike shop on time. I wish I had stopped and signed the book!!

Despite the frequent hills, I still made great progress through some awesome farmland. Illinois is part of the 'Midwestern Corn Belt' and is among the leading states in agriculture. Like everything in America the farms are supersized - I often ended up cycling for a couple of miles through the same field, undivided by hedgerows or buildings! I also saw a high number of horses behind fences but quite close to the road. Every time I stopped they didn't seem to be afraid and while they munched on grass they came close to the fence and I could almost touch them. In the deafening silence of the road, under the sun, on a long country lane with a few occasional cars passing by, standing so close to a horse is a truly emotional experience.

In the afternoon I rode through Takoma Lake and Little Grassy Lake. The route was very scenic, I wish I could have had more time to just wander at will through the park. The waters so calm and fresh tempted me but I soon found out that swimming was not allowed. After a quick detour I hurried back to the road as I was concerned that the bike shop would close before I got there. I reached Carbondale by 4 and while the bike was being repaired I took a stroll downtown. While there isn't much to see in the city itself, Carbondale has an interesting history. Recently, it had a role in political activism. During the Vietnam war there were many anti-war demonstrations on the campus of the famous Southern Illinois University. I passed by the entrance to the campus on my way into town.

My brief stint in Illinois will end tomorrow as, if everything goes to plan, I will be crossing the Mississippi river to enter Missouri, the forth state of my trip! I cannot believe I am already crossing the big river! I am now assessing the route as I want to get to Kansas refreshed and ready for the big heat of the Great Plains. That's gonna hurt!



Illinois fields with Shawnee Forest in the back


The road through the forest


Equine sale


A steep descent coming up


And a big hill coming up


Looking at me


want a cuddle?


Illinois rollers, a nightmare for cyclists!


The cyclist-friendly restaurant in Goreville


The bike being looked after