The route

The route

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

DAY 12: ILLINOIS!



149 km (92 miles) - total: 1647 km (1023 miles)

Central City, Ky to Elizabethtown, Il

South Illinois. This is simply the beginning of the American frontier. To the North the Great Lakes, to the West the Great Plains all the way to the Rockies, to the East the Appalachians. History was decided by the settlers, the adventurers, the pioneers, the outlaws that came. Some settled others went farther West. Their travels shaped this country for ever. Whatever they brought with them would make the wild west a lure to many generations of gold-searchers and broken drifters. Still early to get into all that...I still have a bit to go before I hit the 'Old West' but I am sure that the winds will take me there. The frontier is still there to be seen...
And another State is in the bag after having just passed the 1000-mile mark. But it wasn't all plain sailing today as I was back in the 'rollers'. I don't think I have cycled on a flat stretch that was longer than 300 yards today, not a single one, it was just insane! I was spoilt by yesterday's ride and this morning I left at 8am in no particular hurry. However, I soon realized the challenges ahead. It was disheartening, up and down again, as soon as I crested a hill I could see the next one waiting for me. I can say goodbye to flat terrains as I have the Illinois and Missouri Ozarks to deal with before I can ride on flat ground again, and that is gonna be in Kansas. I finished my day at around 4pm staying in Elizabethtown, a pretty little hamlet along the Ohio river in Illinois. Rose hotel, historic building of 1812 is my home tonight.

This area was originally a stronghold for outlaws including the bandit Logan Belt, Philip Alston the Counterfeiter, the pirate Samuel Mason, and the Sturdivant Gang. I am also close to the 'Trail of Tears' - in the early 1800′s when American settlers headed west into Illinois, the Native Americans were shifted off the land. In 1839 about 14000 Cherokees were forced off the land and made to move 800 miles to modern day Oklahoma through this part of Illinois. Short of food and held up by floating ice in the Mississippi, over 4000 of the Indians died, hence the name Trail of Tears. As soon as I walked into Illinois I spotted a cemetery for Korean war victims. Crossing states was yet another reward for my long days of cycling.

I crossed the river on a short ride on the ferry leaving behind me Kentucky with its bluegrass plants, music, chicken, horses and dogs chases. Just when I thought I had put those beasts behind today I had the worst chase of all. Out of nowhere came these two barking dogs, one was pretty big, looked like a rottweiler but I am not sure. The other dog gave up the chase almost immediately, the other one, this huge nasty thing kept on coming after me, I started sprinting furiously and the dog was getting closer. It chased me for about half a mile and when it realized that it could not get to me it finally gave up. Now that I left the State, I don't want to hear, EVER AGAIN, about Ky dogs.

Today I also met and chatted with another transAm cyclist, John something. He started in Oregon two months ago and was on his way East to the Atlantic. It was nice seeing another rider and being able to exchange details. I told him to get ready for the Appalachians and he told me to watch out for the 100+ degrees temperatures in Kansas where there is nowhere to hide, no shade at all. I will be ready. Tomorrow I hope to get to Carbondale where there's a bike shop, I want to take it in for a tune-up. The tires seem to be doing fine though. My fitness is still holding up, no knees issues and otherwise. I still want to go on for 2 or 3 days before I take another day off. And tomorrow should be a shortish one.

Tonight, I had dinner on a floating restaurant on the Ohio river. The food was good, river fish of some kind, but the continuous motion made eating an hilarious and possibly a seasick endeavor. So far Illinois people seem friendly, after all this is the State that propelled Obama to political glory.



Could this be a faded image of the big American prairie?



Downtown Madisonville


When you see one of these monsters coming right at you on a bicycle, you wonder whether it's a quick, painless way to go!


Today I was on Route 70 for a few hours


Kentucky tobacco fields


You have been warned!


Amish country again, I love this sign!


Amish-made furniture for sale


The barge over Ohio river


My bike and rucksack on the ferry


The floating restaurant on the Ohio river


Elizabethtown looks like a ghost town, the moon is out


Ohio river

6 comments:

  1. Elizabethtown! Is that where they got the movie name from? Never watched it. What would Lincoln have said if he saw you riding across America I wonder. The pictures tell a story of such peace and serenity. Don't you just wish you could pick some up and package it and distribute it?

    Anyway, ignore me while I wax poetic. All that training is really paying off as you're getting through quite well despite the steep mountains, deep valleys and rolling hills (and wild animals, crazy people on the road and the weather, which, by the way, has been good to you!) Almost half way through already and not quite two weeks. What a feat!!

    Proud of you Lu!
    P.S. Am I the only one picking up a trend with these church signs?

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  2. So glad you outpaced that mutt to continue on, on your epic journey. Illinois already?!?! Wow! You know, for those of us here in Bdos, who tend to travel mainly to Florida, NY, or DC, your travels are a fab way for us to get to know the US a little better. So much more than just shopping, nightlife and endless food after all!!

    Yes Marsh girl, the churches trying to shame you into their doors - no holds barred with them eh?

    Anyway Lui, you try to stay away from those monster rigs on the road! Your bike poses very well for pics...if only there was a lone rider on or near it when that pic was taken on the ferry!!

    So proud of you for true!! Patrick says good going, Ari says hello and Lysie says abbbabbaa!

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  3. Muy buenas fotos!!
    te sigo...pero vas muy rápido jaja
    como pasan los dias...
    animo falta menos!!
    ciao
    Edu.

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  4. RQK you don't see that the rider of the bike kinda camera shy?!

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  5. Scusa, perché domani non chiedi al negozio sportivo se hanno borse? Dopo si tratta solo di bilanciare bene i pesi delle 2 e di stare + attento in discesa, così mi dice l'esperto. Direi che mille miglia con 12 chili in + sul groppone possono bastare. O no? Comunque le foto sono bellissime e tu sei bravissimo! Love Pimpa

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  6. 1000 miglia! mi viene subito in mente la famosa corsa delle macchine che attraversavano mezza Italia, sai quando si è un po' provinciali come me si usa come termine di paragone casa propria. Come kilometraggio è come essere partiti dalle Alpi e essersi già tuffati nello stretto di Messina, direi che è notevole, per quanto riguarda il "mangia e bevi", come noi ciclisti chiamiamo il susseguirsi di salite e discese non scoraggiarti, dà molto fastidio anche a chi in bicicletta ci va per mestiere. Per ultima cosa uso i cani per testare il tuo stato di forma: io, per esempio, tutte le volte che facevo la corsa con i cani (ma erano dentro a recinti) ho spesso perso e il fatto che li semini è il segno che la condizione c'è. Ti saluto con il quasi immancabile GOOD LUCK! Micio

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