DAY 19: Catch me if you can

261 km (162 miles) - total: 2669 km (1658 miles)

Pittsburg, Ks to Wichita, Ks

That's right, you're reading right: 261 km, 162 miles, in one day.
My legs got me this far: Wichita, right in the middle of America.

I set off this morning with one goal and one goal only, to get to Wichita. I spent last night analyzing the map and it turned out that I had two options if I wanted to hit a hotel-serviced town: either a short day or an almost impossibly long one. Honestly, I didn't think I could make it, I have never pushed myself on a bicycle to this extent and given the unpredictability of weather conditions, it was really up to the Gods of wind to decide. I set my sights on Fredonia, a mere 110km saunter from Pittsburg. If the winds were favorable or absent I knew I could do better. Determined to challenge myself, I was up at 6 and I gorged myself on cereals, pancakes and other snacks and was duly on the road by 7.10. The morning air was pretty chilly and for once I could not wait for the sun to come out. Surrounded by wheat and corn fields I pushed hard, really hard, like never before in this trip. The road was flat and traffic-free. What surprised me is that I felt in superb shape and clocked 100km in just over 3 hours. I got to Fredonia at 11.30 and by 11.15 I had already done 100km. I felt like never before in perfect physical condition and with the 11mph wind blowing from north, north east, while still causing some trouble, it was much more rideable than yesterday. By noon the road took a slight incline and my swift ride slowed considerably. However, I took advantage of the other long sections of flat terrain, a large highway and lots of motivation to challenge myself and I flew on my bike Wichita-bound hitting 200km by 4pm. By that time I knew I was gonna get to Wichita and could not wait to see the city sign. It is pretty much accepted as a fact that Kansas is flat and it didn't disappoint today, although some of the locals seem really proud of their 'mountains' aka 'The Flint Hills'. I was cycling through these today, and they barely registered after some of the grades I had to deal with in the east. I am reliably informed (by Wikipedia) in fact that most scientists rank Kansas somewhere between 20th and 30th flattest state. Actually, I didn't think Kansas would be as green as it is. One would associate the color yellow with Kansas and while the endless crop fields seem to be the prevailing image of Kansas, the area I passed through today was dedicated to cattle, with herds far bigger than any I have seen so far grazing on very lush and plentiful fields. I cannot fully describe the pastoral beauty of the Mid-west states, I am so glad I have seen it.

Before entering the intricate and noisy Wichita city belt, and after the landmark of 250km, I briefly stopped in Augusta, located on the shores of the Walnut river, a place once inhabited by large numbers of Native American groups. I took a stroll through the tiny historic downtown and wanted to keep going. The weather was absolutely perfect, as it has been all day, not a cloud in the sky and temperatures of about 84-88. When I reached the outskirts of Wichita I was immediately engulfed by traffic. I turned North and went through the downtown streets to take a look at the Air Capital of the World (Wichita is one of the world's most important centers for the manufacture of aircraft, all the major companies have been or are located here). The downtown area is very pleasant as much as the Old Town, a charming historic warehouse district with early 20th-century buildings and brick streets. I rode through the entire town and it took me at least one hour to get from the East side, a very green and pleasant residential area, all the way to the West side. It was a slow ride and I met another cyclist, Troy, who kindly gave valuable info about the town. After more weaving though traffic and traffic lights at about 6.30pm, which meant that I have been riding for almost 12 hours today, a record for me! I finally checked into a hotel, Hampton Inn on the west outskirts of Wichita, and had a most needed shower.

Wichita is the largest city on my trip and after long days of riding in the country through hills and mountains and small towns, today walking through a proper size city felt different and slightly uncomfortable. Central Wichita is laid out in a grid pattern. This town has seen its neighborhoods, like the historic Delano district, go through a see-saw history, through recessions and economic booms. The oil boom generated an explosion of buildings development which lasted until the depression era. I liked the Delano district, a colorful area rich in history and cultural significance. I wish I could write more about Wichita but I cannot think properly and need some food real bad. Today while I was pushing hard on those pedals I said to myself that if I made it Wichita tonight I would treat myself to my favorite dinner: two large pizzas!

Tonight I am pretty exhausted but extremely pleased with myself, 260 km in one day, first and surely last time I accomplish such a feat in my life! I will take it easy tomorrow. After the big city it's time for the broad expanses of grassland and corn fields of Kansas, standing tall against the wind and poised to face the American bison.


Girard at 7.45am, another ghost town


Kansas boasts many wind turbines


Highway 47, as empty as it gets


Pit stop, this self taken picture didn't work very well


Route 400, my lifeline today


Kansas barn. I have a thing for barns!


My ride was briefly paused because of a passing freight train


200kms by 3.39pm, not bad for a rookie


Augusta, charming downtown district


Arkansas river, downtown Wichita