DAY 5: "just like coming down the Galibier"

158km (98 miles) - total: 736km (457 miles)

Radford, VA to Damascus, VA

The most satisfying day of the trip so far. A huge ascent to the highest elevation of the route (3758ft) and the hilarious 11-mile descent during which I averaged 40+ kph. It felt wonderful to be able to 'let it loose' down the slope. I had the road almost all for myself. The road, shaded by two tall walls of leafy trees, twisted round gorges, in between creeks, under hanging rock formations and tunnels of leaves. The fresh air pinched my skin and the deep shade cooled my body. Adrenaline took care of the rest. Shooting downhill like I did today must be just like coming down the legendary Galibier without the chasing group behind that is! It was complete, unrestrained freedom!
I reached Damascus, a haven for hikers, at 5.30pm and was lucky to find the Hikers Inn, where I am the only guest and the landlady, a cheerful woman in her 60s, was kind enough to let me do the laundry so I was able to wash all my clothes. The place is quaint and peaceful with smooth wooden floors and antique furniture. Suzanne, the owner, has a vegetable and a flower garden out back. History has it that people from West Virginia are quiet and proud. It is true. However, their pride is quickly concealed by an unexpected abundance of kindness reflected in respectful and dignified gestures.

I was happy to leave the grotty motel I stayed in last night! I did not sleep well, the bed was too small and the mattress too saggy. So I hit the road this morning at 7.15am and rode through a hilly section of Virginia still shrouded in a haze. I toiled up short steep hills and felt slightly disheartened because having to shift gear every 100 yards for over 2 hours and then down and up again is not exactly ideal cycling. When I got to Wytheville, at 11 am, I felt extremely tired and for a second I thought I was done for the day. I sat in a diner out of a 50s movie, I wouldn't have been surprised if James Dean had walked in. After two tasty ham and cheese I began to ponder my options: call it a day or keep going? I rested my head on the table and found some inner strenght building up in my veins so in no time I was back on the saddle. The road again was hilly and tough but it afforded some great scenery. I stopped a few more times to stock on water and chocolate along the way at isolated grocery stores and I knew that the morning hills foreshadowed what was to come: the big ascent of Mount Rogers National Park where all the Appalachian trails meet. I thought about resting an extra day before taking it on but at the late hour of 4pm I gave it try. I put my music on and my legs felt strong and I pedaled up the ascent all fired up! The scenery was really beautiful as the pictures, I hope, do some justice to it. When I got to the top of the ascent totally soaked in sweat I stopped for a few seconds to look at the view with a big smile on my face. The descent was the highlight of the day, I came down the mountain smiling almost all the way, feeling free and happy. The scenery was incredible, the road ringed by tall trees with thick foliage which kept the sun out of my eyes. The smell of nature was incredibly fresh and I could enjoy it all without traffic. The languid life along the back roads of West Virginia has an incredible appeal to me. These back country lanes with the sound of nature all around are the perfect scenery for cycling. An unmatched peace, a soothing sense of solitude, an unbearable feeling of belonging to nature and its little things have pervaded me. I was alone and I had my bicycle, I did not need anything else. I will never forget this.

I have been cycling for 5 solid days and I am still in Virginia!! If it wasn't for the changing scenery I would say I am not making any progress. And yet, if all goes to plan, tomorrow night I may be in Kentucky...but let's not get head of myself.



Rest stop


Fog clings to the hills


Road winds up through the forest


More climbs..


..and more


Damascus, Main st


Are we entering the bible belt? yep!


and more