DAY 6 : KENTUCKY!

133 km (82 miles) - total: 869 km (539 miles)

Damascus, VA to Elkhorn City, KY

It may seem like a shortish day distance-wise but it had some nasty climbs so I am satisfied with today's work. I finished my day a few miles into Kentucky, the second State of my transAmerica trip. I thought that I would never see the back of Virginia but finally, after 6 hard-earned days of toiling I was finally crossing states. I am right on schedule and I have 6 days of cycling and climbing hills in my legs. I did not think I was going to polish off Virginia so efficiently. I am in one piece and in great spirits. I look forward to taking on the rest of America. I started the day later than planned as the Inn I took lodge at last night was too comfortable and it was hard to get back on the road. After a huge breakfast I was away at 8.30 and pretty soon hit some serious climbs. I knew I had to deal with at least 2 big steep hills in the morning and one in the afternoon but I chewed 'em up with my eyes on the prize and by 5pm I saw the Kentucky sign and yes!!!...I am done with Virginia. Today I cycled on solitary country roads with almost no traffic at all, I must have seen only a handful of cars all day. I often paused by the side of the road to look around me, the silent hills dotted with wooden barns and farm houses, the rolling green fields, often fenceless around here. I wish I had taken more pictures today, every single corner of this country should be photographed. But given the seesaw of climbs and descents I was very much focused on the job at hand. Often I thought "Ok, let's stop here to take a picture...no no let's keep going a while longer". So the scenery is really imprinted in my memory, the few pictures cannot do justice to the understated beauty of these hills. Entering Ky reminded me that I only have two big climbs left before I part ways with the Appalachians, so this is the good news. The bad news is that the fierce Kentucky dogs are all waiting for me, sharpening their teeth. I was again warned today by local people to brace myself for some serious chasing by barking dogs of all kinds and sizes.
The mountains got steeper and before I reached the Breaks Interstate Park, the road snaked through a deep gorge for about 30 miles. The climb up Hayter's Gap was the toughest ascent of the trip, I ascended 1500 feet over 4 miles. When I got to the top it felt amazing! The views and the subsequent descent made it all worthwhile. I absolutely blasted down the mountain hitting speed of 55kph. There is a considerable degree of risk doing that as a fallen rock, a pothole, a slip, anything in the way is all that it takes to send you flying head first in a ditch or in the middle of the road with a bicycle chained to your feet. That is why it takes maximum focus to cycle down the slope, eyes glued to the road, hands firm on the handlebar and fingers ready to hit on the brakes. I have learnt how to shift my body on the bicycle according to the line of the road, how to pedal putting more pressure on the ankles, the calves, the knees and the hips even. And while I am doing all this I've got America all around me.

Today I did not stop for lunch but rather I had more frequent rest stops eating all sorts of power and chocolate bars. I do not even like power bars, I find them too sweat, so today I started eating those healthy fig biscuits. I walk into a grocery store in my cycling gear, sweat pooring down my face and I supremely enjoy the fat ladies at the counter buried in make-up smiling and puffing a "how'ya doin hon?". There are things that are really "only in America". Certain villages I cycle through belong to a different era, a different world really. Detached from the relentless hussle of big cities and far way from what we consider modern life. I love this feeling, there is a world within our world. Life goes on for everyone, wherever we are. The bicycle is the means with which I am traveling through realities and they are all mine. This is the United States of America, with all the shades of gray in between. These are the people I would never meet. These are the people I don't see. These are the people that exist at the margins of my life and yet, right now and right here they are my life.

I have to admit that the country houses are getting shabbier and run down as I move West. It is a sign that poverty levels increase as well and it is all too visible. Many houses display all kind of rubbish in the front porches. Yards are dotted with old toys and obscure gadgets. Signs of yard sales, garage sales, weekend sales, etc are eveywhere. Owners may sit on the front steps of their trailers. Huge tattooed men barechested stare blankly while chewing and spitting all the time. Women smoke a lot and kids run around barefooted.

West Virginia and part of Kentucky are steeped in coal mining history as coal commerce started as early as 1700s here in Virginia. I was passed by at least fifty coal trucks and tankers today!! it does not make for a fun ride as they roar by without concern often coming within a whisker. I came across two coal shafts and I understand that Virginia even fought a war over control of coal industry.

I wish to conclude today's report by mentioning Mike from Holkorn City who helped me to place the motel. Despite the pervasive poverty, the kindness of locals here is disarming and many enquire about my trip and wish me well.



View from the Breaks Interstate Park


Funny sign


Entrance to a coal Mine


The scenic route 80 cutting through West Virginia